So whether it may be in television, movies, or in sports, we all have those “inspirational” people that we look up to. We realize how much of an impact that they have in the many different events that take place in our lives. In terms of surfing, I have many inspirational characters that I look up to.
For instance, Andy Irons or AI for short, passed away almost two years ago this coming November. He was an awesome surfer who caused the different styles of surfing we see today. He has made me realize that surfing may be all the fancy cars, fancy events, and girls, but in reality, it is all about the surfing. The way “getting barreled” feels, or your first home break that made you realize how hooked you are to surfing. Basically, its passion. It takes heart, motivation, and a hell lot of patience to understand and love this sport.
Other inspirational surfers of mine include Kolohe Adino and Evan Geiselman, Why? Adino and Geiselman are young surfers who compete with other professional surfers. It motivates me to practice even harder each session I am out in the water. Now, I am no way near professional level of surfing, I just like the feel and adrenaline rush I get when I surf. There is this feeling I get, but I cannot explain it in words, pictures, or blogs.
I am not going to name all the inspirational surfers that have influenced me, but just know a little inspiration comes a long way. Helps you realize how much more you can improve on something you want to be good at. That feeling that surfers know but cannot explain, is only something that can be experienced rather than re-telling the past.